一个人 + 一辆 Model Y + 一台 Starlink。睡卡车站，洗 Planet Fitness，吃冷藏箱。2026 年 8 月。
🗺️ 路线
Day 1 · 8/9 · Santa Clara → Winnemucca
60% 电量、没吃早饭就出发。翻过 Donner Pass，在 Sparks 做了第一次"守门充"——因为前方是全程最大的充电缺口：Sparks→Winnemucca，148 英里没有一根桩。内华达荒漠的第一夜睡在卡车站，隔壁是彻夜轰鸣的冷藏车。规矩从第一晚就立下了：睡觉 $0。
Day 2 · 8/10 · Winnemucca → 盐滩 → Provo
I-80 一路向东，在州界上的赌场镇 Wendover 拐进 Bonneville 盐滩——地球上最平的地方之一，Silver Island 环线上只有盐壳、山影和一辆黑色 Model Y。傍晚在盐湖城刷了第一次 Planet Fitness（$1 的澡），夜宿 Provo 的 Flying J。
Day 3 · 8/11 · Provo → 峡谷 → 荒漠 → Palisade
全程最野的一天：US-6 翻 Soldier Summit，穿过煤镇 Helper；Green River 买瓜、加块冰。原计划去 San Rafael Swell 荒漠散营看星空——一条手机弹出的山洪红色预警把计划当场杀死（安全警报永远压过计划）。改道 I-70 东行，在 Spotted Wolf Canyon 的观景台看 San Rafael Reef 像墙一样立起来，雨里开出犹他，夜宿科罗拉多桃镇 Palisade 的加油站——问过店员，点头才睡。
Day 4 · 8/12 · 桃镇 → 温泉 → 落基山
早晨在 Palisade 买桃——买桃的人来自北京平谷（大桃之乡），这是一场跨洲桃业同行评审。中午泡进 Glenwood Hot Springs：1888 年开业、世界最大温泉池，泉水又咸又带硫味（这个问题后来写成了一篇文章）。下午赶上 Glenwood 峡谷的天光，躲过 Vail 附近的泥石流警报，换来一整道彩虹拱在 I-70 上。日落停在 Vail Pass 3,120 米，夜里从艾森豪威尔隧道底下穿过大陆分水岭，吃掉此行最后一顿 In-N-Out，睡在平原开端的 Love's。
Day 5 · 8/13 · 堪萨斯 → 870 英里
大平原日。Burlington 的 1905 年旋转木马闭馆，隔着玻璃拍到一只手绘长颈鹿。Goodland 的 24 米画架上立着梵高的向日葵——访客簿上前一行写着"40TH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY"，下一行写着"going road trip"。Oakley 的 Buffalo Bill 青铜、Abilene 的艾森豪威尔（前一晚刚从他的隧道下面开过）。然后把地图开成了直线：一天 870 英里，晚上 8:36 从 Kansas City 的红色灯塔底下不停车穿过——理由很简单：少停一站，早一天见到 Cassie。凌晨 1:39 在密苏里的 Planet Fitness 洗澡。
Day 6 · 8/14 · 树回来了 → 西弗吉尼亚
密苏里之后，树回来了——美国的"干燥半场"正式结束（挡风玻璃上的虫子也回来了，这个观察后来也写成了一篇文章）。Effingham 的充电桩和 60 米大十字架同一个地址；Terre Haute 吃了人生第一个 ButterBurger（好吃）；印第安纳波利斯赛道到了但闭门，隔街致意。夜里 11 点在 Zanesville 俯瞰亮着灯的 Y 桥——世界罕见的三岔桥，还在超充线缆槽里发现一只常驻蜘蛛。深夜睡进第 8 个州：西弗吉尼亚的 Sheetz。
Day 7 · 8/15 · → Jersey City
纯开车日，宾州一个州横着穿过去。然后 I-78 进新泽西，最后几英里爬上 1932 年的 Pulaski Skyway——头顶的路牌写着"Jersey City · ALL DISTRICTS"，牌子后面站着整排曼哈顿天际线。18:30 到达。晚饭是四川香辣烤鱼，对面坐着开了 2,900 英里来见的人。穷游模式正式下线，这顿不算账。
路上写下的四篇《十万个为什么》
问题都是在方向盘后面长出来的：
| 🎰 为什么到处是赌场？ | 两个"物种"的趋同演化：内华达 1931 与部落主权 1988 |
| ♨️ 温泉为什么又咸又臭？ | 一块三亿年前的海底岩层，同时解释两种感官 |
| 🚛 卡车站靠什么赚钱？ | 一部联邦法规凭空造出的行业；巴菲特为什么买了一家 |
| 🪰 东部的挡风玻璃为什么更脏？ | 树、虫和 Powell 的 100 度经线是同一件事 |
| 🏙️ 为什么最富的城市反而最脏？ | Lake Placid 的答案：干净的地方把混乱的成本转移给了别处 |
复盘（本人口述）
"It was amazing." 但要诚实：最后两天纯赶路，又累又无聊——一半是自己选的（少停一天，早见一天），一半是结构性的：东部走廊没有百英里视线和裸露地质。这趟路教会我一件事：我的菜是壮观——岩壁、盐滩、云、巨型机器；不是木马和故居。全程平均每晚睡 6 小时 41 分，平均上床 2:47 AM——横穿大陆靠的是六个半小时的夜和凌晨三点的意志。
返程 9 月：I-40 · 大峡谷 · 陨石坑 · 石化林 · 莫哈韦——正好全是我的菜。
One person + one Model Y + one Starlink dish. Slept at truck stops, showered at Planet Fitness, ate from a cooler. August 2026.
🗺️ The route
Day 1 · 8/9 · Santa Clara → Winnemucca
Left on 60% battery with no breakfast. Over Donner Pass, then the first "gate-guard charge" at Sparks — because ahead lay the trip's biggest charging gap: Sparks→Winnemucca, 148 miles without a single stall. The first night slept at a Nevada truck stop beside refrigerated trailers idling till dawn. The rule was set on night one: sleep costs $0.
Day 2 · 8/10 · Winnemucca → the salt → Provo
East on I-80, then a turn at the border casino town of Wendover onto the Bonneville Salt Flats — one of the flattest places on Earth. On the Silver Island loop: salt crust, mountain shadows, and one black Model Y. First Planet Fitness shower in Salt Lake City ($1), night at the Provo Flying J.
Day 3 · 8/11 · Provo → canyons → desert → Palisade
The wildest day: US-6 over Soldier Summit, through the coal town of Helper; melons and block ice at Green River. The plan was desert camping under the stars in the San Rafael Swell — killed on the spot by a flash-flood emergency alert (safety alerts outrank plans, always). Rerouted onto I-70 east, watched the San Rafael Reef rise like a wall from the Spotted Wolf overlook, drove out of Utah in the rain, and slept at a gas station in Palisade, Colorado's peach town — after asking the clerk, who nodded.
Day 4 · 8/12 · Peaches → hot springs → the Rockies
Morning peaches in Palisade — bought by a man from Pinggu, Beijing's own peach capital: an intercontinental peach peer-review. Noon in Glenwood Hot Springs: open since 1888, the world's largest hot-springs pool, the water salty and faintly sulfurous (that question later became an essay). Caught daylight in Glenwood Canyon, dodged a mudslide warning near Vail, and was paid back with a complete rainbow arch over I-70. Sunset at Vail Pass, 3,120 m; crossed the Continental Divide from underneath through the Eisenhower Tunnel; ate the trip's last In-N-Out; slept at a Love's where the plains begin.
Day 5 · 8/13 · Kansas → 870 miles
The Great Plains day. Burlington's 1905 carousel was closed — a hand-painted giraffe photographed through the glass. At Goodland, Van Gogh's sunflowers stood on an 80-foot easel — and in the visitor register, the line above his read "40TH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY"; his read "going road trip." Buffalo Bill's bronze at Oakley; Eisenhower's hometown at Abilene, one night after driving under his tunnel. Then the map became a straight line: 870 miles in a day, passing under Kansas City's red-lit pylons at 8:36 PM without stopping — the reason simple: one fewer stop, one day sooner to Cassie. A 1:39 AM shower at a Missouri Planet Fitness.
Day 6 · 8/14 · The trees return → West Virginia
After Missouri, the trees came back — America's dry half was over (the windshield bugs came back too; that observation became an essay as well). At Effingham the Supercharger shares an address with a 60-metre cross; Terre Haute delivered a first-ever ButterBurger (good); the Indianapolis Motor Speedway was reached but closed — saluted from across the street. At 11 PM, Zanesville's lamplit Y-Bridge from the overlook — one of the only three-way bridges on Earth — plus a resident spider discovered in the Supercharger's cable holster. Deep in the night, sleep in state #8: a West Virginia Sheetz.
Day 7 · 8/15 · → Jersey City
A pure driving day, the whole width of Pennsylvania. Then I-78 into New Jersey and the final miles up the 1932 Pulaski Skyway — "Jersey City · ALL DISTRICTS" overhead, the Manhattan skyline standing behind the sign. Arrived 6:30 PM. Dinner was Sichuan 香辣烤鱼, across the table from the person 2,900 miles were driven for. Cheap mode formally off duty; that meal went unaudited.
Four essays written on the road
Every question grew behind the steering wheel:
| 🎰 Why so many casinos? | Convergent evolution of two "species": Nevada 1931 and tribal sovereignty 1988 |
| ♨️ Why is the hot spring salty AND smelly? | One 300-million-year-old seabed explains both senses |
| 🚛 What does a truck stop actually sell? | An industry conjured by one federal regulation; why Buffett bought one |
| 🪰 Why are Eastern windshields dirtier? | The trees, the bugs, and Powell's 100th meridian are the same fact |
| 🏙️ Why are the richest cities the dirtiest? | Lake Placid's answer: clean places transfer the costs of disorder elsewhere |
The debrief (in his own words)
"It was amazing." But honestly: the last two days were pure transit — tiring and dull. Half by choice (one fewer stop, one day sooner), half structural: the Eastern corridor has no hundred-mile sightlines, no exposed geology. The trip settled one thing: my thing is spectacle — rock walls, salt flats, cloud systems, giant machines; not carousels and historic houses. Average sleep: 6 h 41 min a night, average bedtime 2:47 AM — a continent crossed on six-and-a-half-hour nights and 3 AM willpower.
The return, September: I-40 · Grand Canyon · Meteor Crater · Petrified Forest · Mojave — precisely my thing.